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New Zealand: North Island – Rotorua

Exploring the hot springs of Hidden Valley and the fascinating Te Puia, Maori Cultural Centre

Orakei Karoko (the Hidden Valley)

We woke to a gloriously sunny day in Taupo and decided to head out early to make the most of the day. The plan was to make our way to Rotorua, some 40 miles away, where we would be stopping for 2 nights. During our stay in Taupo, we had picked up leaflets about a place called Orakei Karoko, or the Hidden Valley. This place is a bit off the beaten track (as hidden valleys usually are) and apparently had some interesting geothermal features. During our previous travels, we had been to some volcanically active places such as Iceland, Yellowstone Park and Hawaii so we had a good idea of what to expect as far as geothermal things go. What we did find was something very special.

The good thing about arriving early was that we had the place to ourselves. There is a circular path that takes you past an array of limestone terraces, hot springs, geysers and fumaroles. The visitor centre sits on the opposite side of a very pretty lake from the trail and in the early morning sun, we had a spectacular display of rising steam coming from numerous places in the dense vegetation across from us. From the visitor centre, there is a boat which ferried us across to the trailhead. We headed up the trail which took us past some fast bubbling hot springs and a glorious limestone terrace. The forest rose around us made up of an assortment of trees, including some primordial looking tree ferns. We would not have been surprised to see a tyrannosaurus rex come crashing through the undergrowth towards us. It was a magical place to be on that sunny morning and we really enjoyed meandering our way along the trail.

Location494 Orakei Korako Road, Taupō 3083
Hours9am with the last boat leaving for the thermal area at 3pm.
Admission FeesAdults: $42
Children (16 & Under): $17
Families (2 Adults & 2+ Children): $109
Under 6’s are free
Waiting for our boat ride to Orakei Karoko (the Hidden Valley)
Waiting for our boat ride to Orakei Karoko (the Hidden Valley)
The steam rises from the hot springs at Waiting for our boat ride to Orakei Karoko (the Hidden Valley) - Rotorua, New Zealand
The steam rises from the hot springs at Orakei Karoko
A hot spring at Orakei Karoko (the Hidden Valley)
A hot spring at Orakei Karoko (the Hidden Valley)
Hot and steamy - Orakei Karoko (the Hidden Valley)
Hot and steamy at Orakei Karoko
The steamy backdrop of geysers at Hidden Valley (Orakei-Karoko)
The steamy backdrop of geysers at Orakei-KarokoOrakei-Karoko
Orakei-Karoko (Hidden Valley) New Zealand
A sulphur spring at Orakei Karoko (the Hidden Valley), New Zealand
A sulphur spring
Elephant Rock at Orakei Karoko (the Hidden Valley)-New Zealand
Lush forests abound in Orakei Karoko (the Hidden Valley)-New Zealand
Lush forests abound
Orakei Karoko (the Hidden Valley)-New Zealand
Orakei Karoko (the Hidden Valley)-New Zealand

Te Puia, Maori Cultural Centre, Rotorua

Sadly, we had to leave the Hidden Valley and continue our journey on to Rotorua which we reached around lunchtime. It was still a lovely day and the weather in these parts can be somewhat changeable so we pulled forward our plans from the following day to visit one of the local Maori cultural centres that pepper Rotorua. We chose the most renowned cultural centre, Te Puia.

Our first port of call was to watch a performance of Maori songs and dances. Our group gathered underneath a shelter where we were met by a jolly lady dressed in traditional costume. She explained the ritual of what was about to happen, and from amongst us, a chief was chosen to represent our tribe. Once these formalities had been completed a group of Maori warriors appeared from their meeting house and their chief came forward and conducted a ritual which was used to determine whether we had come in peace or were there to have a bit of a rumpus with them. They looked pretty scary and we were armed with nothing more dangerous than cameras, so we sensibly chose the peace option. Once we were all friends they invited us into the meeting house where our “chief” did the formal greeting with all the Maori warriors, touching of the nose twice over. Now it was party time and we were given a wonderful performance of traditional Maori songs and dances, ranging from love songs to the famous Haka war dance. Those Maori warriors look very frightening when they stick out their tongues and give you the open-eyed stare – we were not tempted to laugh at them however silly they looked.

Location:Hemo Road, Tihiotonga, Rotorua 3040
Hours:Wednesday to Sunday, 10am – 4pm
Admission Fees:

NZ$39 for adults

NZ$20 children

NZ$79 2-day family pass

A Maori warriors leaves the wharenui (community house) at Te Puia in Rotorua, New Zealand
A Maori warriors leaves the wharenui (community house) at Te Puia in Rotorua
Whakarewarewa Village in Rotorua, New Zealand

After the cultural performance, we joined a guided tour of the rest of Te Puia. Our first destination was the Whakawarewatanga thermal reserve. ‘ Whararewarew’ is an abbreviated version of Te Whakarewarewatanga O Te Ope Taua A Wahiao, meaning ‘The uprising of the warriors (war party) of Wahiao’, often shortened simply to ‘Whaka’ by the locals. Like Lake Taupo, Rotorua is essentially in the centre of a giant volcanic caldera. Whilst this presents an element of danger from eruptions and earthquakes, it also provides a wonderful source of hot water and heat, which the Maoris throughout their history have taken full advantage of. In the area is the spectacular Pohutu Geyser (meaning “big splash” in Maori) which erupts every hour, firing torrents of water and steam up to 30 metres in the air. These eruptions can last up to 10 to 15 minutes. There are some 500 hot pools and 65 geyser vents in the Whaka reserve and as with all thermal areas, these can change overnight as the ground below is moving and continually reorganising its plumbing system. A short distance from the Pohutu Geyser is a particularly active bubbling mud pot, which over the years has grown to be about 30 metres in diameter and is now threatening to consume the adjoining hotel complex.

A pool at the Te Puia thermal area in Rotorua, New Zealand
A pool at the Te Puia thermal area in Rotorua
A geyser erupts - Te Puia Thermal Area in Rotorua, New Zealand
A geyser erupts
A mud pot - Te Puia thermal area, Rotorua
A mud pot

It was soon time to move on and we walked through the Kiwi house (more on Kiwis later) and onto the carving and weaving schools. Sadly, over several generations, as in numerous native populations throughout the world, many traditional Maori skills have been lost under the pressure of burgeoning western influences. In an attempt to save the important heritage crafts and skills several schools have been established across New Zealand to try and preserve these aspects of Maori culture. The Maoris are a tribal nation and as a consequence different tribes have their own stories to tell through their arts and crafts. Carving, or Whakairo in Maori, was more than just decorative because it provides a written record of Maori history and folklore. Te Puia’s Te Wananga Whakairo or carving school runs three courses teaching these skills.

An elaborate carving at the Te Wananga Whakairo carving school in Te Puia, Rotorua, New Zealand
An elaborate carving at the Te Wananga Whakairo carving school in Te Puia
An elaborate carving at the Te Wananga Whakairo carving school in Te Puia, Rotorua, New Zealand
Traditional Maori ceremonial canoe at Te Puia, Rotorua, New Zealand
Traditional Maori ceremonial canoe at Te Pui
A traditional Maori dance - Te Puia, Rotorua, New Zealand
A traditional Maori dance

After checking out of Te Puia we checked into the hostel in Rotorua. This hostel is quite big and is modern, and somewhat characterless. The rooms were very steamy and the weather was not even that warm! Anyway, we quickly ate our dinner and set out for the night market just a couple of blocks away. We wish we hadn’t eaten at the hostel as there were some yummy foods to be had, but we settled for ice cream and took a walk down to the lake. It was getting chilling by this time and we were dressed for the warmth of the day so we soon turned around and headed back for our all too toasty room at the hostel.

Planning your visit to Lake Rotorua

Getting to Rotorua

Rotorua is centrally located in the middle of the North Island of New Zealand, about a 3 ½ hours’ drive from Auckland and a 4 ½ hours’ drive from Wellington.

Rotorua is within a two-hour drive of Waitomo Caves to the west, Hamilton to the north, Tauranga to the east and Ruapehu to the south.

Rotorua Airport handles daily flights from Auckland, Wellington, Queenstown and Christchurch. There are twice-weekly flights from Sydney. Departing passengers on domestic flights are required to pay an Airport Development Levy prior to boarding their flights.

Baybus is the public bus service that runs regular services throughout the Bay of Plenty and Rotorua region.

A number of nationwide coach operators travel to Rotorua, including guided tour options that drop you off at your accommodation after visiting the attractions. GreatSights and Grayline Tours operate both single and return tours to Rotorua. There is also the option of a guided tour of Rotorua departing from Auckland and Rotorua including FlexiToursNZ.

Best time to visit Rotorua

One can visit Rotorua all throughout the year but most people prefer to visit during the summer making it the peak season here. While the long hours of sunlight make summer the best time to visit Rotorua for sightseeing and outdoor explorations, spring brings great weather to Rotorua with the least crowds around.

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Other places to visit near Rotorua


Lake Taupo. is located in the North Island of New Zealand. It is in the caldera of the Taupo Volcano. With a surface area of 616 square kilometres (238 sq mi), it is the largest lake by surface area in New Zealand, and the second-largest freshwater lake by surface area in Oceania

Taupo is about 80km south of Rotorua.

The not so ancient carvings on the cliffs of Lake Taupo, New Zealand


Rainbow Springs nature park is a great place to visit to find out more about the flora and fauna of New Zealand. Here you can get close up and personal with the local animals, birds and plants that make this country unique. You can wander the park on your own or join a self-guided tour.

The park is also home to the Kiwi (the national bird of New Zealand) National Hatchery. The shy and increasingly rare birds are nocturnal so seeing them in the wild is not likely. Here you will get a chance to observe these very unusual birds and get an insight into the role the hatchery is playing in their conservation.

An amazing statue of a kiwi at the Rainbow Springs Nature Park, Rotorua, New Zealand


Waitomo caves lay about 2-hours west of Taupo. The original caves are famous for their glowworms. Here you will float on boats through the cave and marvel at the stunning display they put on. There are other caves to enjoy on foot, but there are no glowworms here just the splendour of the caves themselves.

For adrenalin junkies, there are blackwater rafting experiences here you’ll don wetsuits and float down underground rivers in tubes, with some rapids and waterfalls thrown in. The adventure known as the abyss has you abseiling into the cave, ziplining in the dark and climbing waterfalls. Sounds fun eh!

Where to stay near Rotorua


Peppers on the Point Lake Rotorua is an upscale resort surrounded by Lake Rotorua, Peppers on the Point is a luxury retreat featuring spectacular views towards Mokoia Island. Guests can enjoy fine dining in the restaurant or indulge in a massage or treatment at the day spa.

The resort is a 15-minute drive from Whakarewarewa Thermal Village and 10-minutes from the Museum of Art and History. 


Aura Accommodations is centrally located, a 3-minute walk from the lakefront, 4 minutes walk from the famous Eat Streat and 9 minutes’ walk from both Government Gardens and Rotorua Museum.

Guests can enjoy summer, bathing in the large outdoor geothermal heated swimming pool. The property is within walking distance of all the central city attractions and local markets on offer.


YHA Rotorua offers budget backpacker accommodation right beside Kuirau Park, Rotorua’s free geothermal attraction, and only two minutes’ walk from shops, cafes, restaurants and the beautiful Lake Rotorua. This Rotorua hostel has a choice of indoor or outdoor dining with a spacious modern kitchen as well a large outdoor deck and BBQ. Communal backpacker facilities include a comfortable separate lounge and TV room with lots of DVDs to watch and a coin-operated laundry service.

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