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  11. Spain: Figueres – Teatre-Museu...

The Teatre-Museu Dalí houses a fabulous collection of the works of Salvador Dalí and is also the site of his burial

Sadly, we had to leave Girona and head north. But it had been a great start to the holiday.

The town of Figueres, the Catalan for fig trees, is a provincial capital and the birthplace of the artist Salvador Dalí. The primary reason for this trip to Spain was to celebrate my dad’s birthday – but I decided to expand the trip to do an immersion in Spanish culture (luckily I have a wife who seems to be happy in joining my whims of travel). I have long admired the work of Dalí and wanted to visit the museum in Figueres celebrating his work and to go to his home in Port Lligat, close by.

The journey up from Girona was mercifully short as we were still extremely exhausted from our travels. Reaching Figueres late morning meant we beat the rush for visiting the Teatre-Museu Dalí, which houses a fabulous collection of his works and is also the site of his burial. Interestingly at the time of our visit, there was a controversy going in respect to the claim of a tarot card reader that Dalí was indeed her father. A Spanish court had just ordered his body to be exhumed for a quick bit of DNA testing. The exhumation took place in July and when they raised the silk handkerchief covering his face they found his magnificent moustache was still in place in its iconic “10 to 10” position – much to the delight of the guy who had embalmed him!

The museum itself was originally a theatre that had fallen into ruin after it was burned during the Spanish Civil War. In 1960 Dalí and the town mayor decided to rebuild it and dedicate it as a museum to the town’s most famous son. It houses an amazing selection of his works – mainly his private collection. From the outset the museum is a true tribute to the fertile imagination of Dalí, the building itself resembles a Moorish castle, painted red and ordained with a cluster of golden plastered croissants and a roof lined with Oscar-like statues and huge eggs.

Teatre-Museu Dalí

The entrance to the museum itself is bizarre with an odd mixture of Roman and medieval symbology, and above the door to the museum is a statue of someone in diver suits surround by some ladies carrying large baguettes over their heads.

The museum itself is built around a courtyard at the centre of which is a large installation entitled Taxi Plujós (Rainy Taxi), an early Cadillac, surmounted by statues. The place is full of surprises, tricks and illusions, and contains a substantial portion of Dalí’s life’s work, but not his most famous pieces as they are scattered around the world. It is one of those places that cause sensory overload, with so many different visual and visceral experiences.

The entrance to the Dali Theatre Museum (teatre-museu)
Taxi Plujós (Rainy Taxi)

The Sala de Peixateries (Fishmongers’ Hall) holds a collection of Dalí oils, including the famous Autoretrat Tou amb Tall de Bacon Fregit (Soft Self-Portrait with Fried Bacon) and Retrat de Picasso (Portrait of Picasso). Gala, Dalí’s wife and lifelong muse is seen in many of the works. In the Mae West room, you climb up a set of wrought iron stairs to a special point to see the image of the famous actresses face. As well as Dalí’s work there were other collections, the most interesting and extensive is that of Antoni Pitxot. His works are based on paintings and installations of rocks and other natural objects to form images of people.

This place was truly magical.

A large mural in the main hall of the Teatre Museu Dali
Mae West Lips Sofa
The inner museum courtyard
Chain sculpture in courtyard
A sketch
Work of Antoni Pitxot
Dali Self-portraits

By the time we had finished our visit to the Teatre-Museu Dalí, we were hot and tired. From our brief journey through the town of Figueres we were not too impressed (although later we revised our feelings), so we decided to head out to the Costa Brava coast. Not too far away was the seaside resort of Roses – which sounded very inviting. As is often the case the name does not reflect the true nature of the beast, and Roses did not fail to disappoint … but it had a beach, it was warm so we lay down and fell asleep to the sounds of lapping waves and bustling tourists!

When we woke it was a fairly easy decision to leave Roses – so we decided to drive out the Cap de Creus scenic national park. It was by now a glorious day and the route out of town was very pretty along a windy track out to a headland. We were hoping to find a nice hidden beach free of tourists, but this rugged coastline didn’t offer many opportunities to get down to the sea. At the end of the road – literally – was a private resort, so we simply turned around and headed back towards Figures to find our hostel. Along the way, we did find a Lidl, much to Karen’s delight, where we picked up some food for the evening.

On reaching Figueres, I had plotted into the GPS the address of the hostel. As usual, I faithfully followed the instructions given by the authoritative-sounding voice of the GPS – which can sometimes get you into trouble. After circling a couple of times we ended up driving into a pedestrian area which was a bit alarming to the people walking through. I dropped Karen off to get instructions on where to park. Eventually, we found somewhere to park and settled into our relatively comfortable hostel room, which thankfully turned out to have air conditioning! The hostel itself was right in the centre of the old part of town, which turned out to be, contrary to our first impressions, a surprisingly nice place. So, after eating our picnic in the courtyard of the hostel we set out to explore the shops and sights of Figueres, before returning for a well-earned nights rest.

Cap de Creus

In summary …

  • Figueres is about one and half hours north of Barcelona. For fans of  Dalí, the excursion is worth the effort
  • Whilst most of Dalí’s more famous pieces are spread around the world this museum shows off his creative genius.
  • The parking is limited so it is best to get there early in the day, especially in the summer (this also avoids crowds, heat etc)

Planning your visit

Making a reservation

The museum gets really busy so it is worth making your reservations online especially in the summer months.

Getting there

From Barcelona: AP7 motorway (Barcelona-la Jonquera), Figueres exit, or take the main road Nacional II (Barcelona-France). Drive to the city centre.

From Perpignan A9 motorway (Perpignan-la Jonquera), then take main road Nacional II until Figueres or AP7 motorway (la Jonquera-Figueres).

There are trains that run from Barcelona & Perpignan. The train station is a 12-minute walk from the Museum.

Location:
Platja, 17488 Port Lligat, Girona, SpaPlaça Gala i Salvador Dalí, 5, 17600 Figueres, Girona, Spain
Website:https://www.salvador-dali.org/en/museums/dali-theatre-museum-in-figueres/
Telephone:+34 972 67 75 00
Hours:from monday to sunday  9:30h – 18h
Admission Fee:Individual €14, Student (<16) €9; Senior (+65) €9

Best time to visit Catalonia

The best time to visit Catalonia is from May to June when balmy temperatures in the low to mid-70s mesh with a flurry of festivals that trumpet the advent of summer. The actual summertime is sticky with humidity – locals leave their beloved city in droves to catch a breeze somewhere else. They come back for the fall when the average highs drop back into the 70s. Winter is mild compared to other Spanish destinations, with highs in the high 50s. And while coming during the spring may seem like a smart idea for avoiding crowds, April sees frequent showers, which may put a literal damper on sightseeing plans. Keep in mind that no matter what time of the year you’ll visit, there will be tourist crowds.

 

Where to stay?

1. HOTEL PERALADA

Hotel Peralada Wine Spa and Golf has rooms with views over the resort golf course. The hotel also offers an outdoor pool and a spa is available for a surcharge.

Rooms at the Hotel Peralada are modern and feature bright décor. All rooms have a plasma-screen TV and free Wi-Fi access.

A range of paid treatments and massages are availablein the Peralada’s wine spa.

The Olivera restaurant features a terrace and serves Mediterranean cuisine. Guests can also take advantage of one free entry to the Castillo Casino.

The Peralada is located in the town of Peralada, 15 minutes’ drive from Figueres.

2. HOSTAL CAN XICU

Hostal Can Xicu in Capmany provides accommodation with free bikes, a garden and a shared lounge. A hot tub is available for guests. Free WiFi is included.

At the guest house, all rooms are fitted with a desk, a flat-screen TV and a private bathroom. Every room is equipped with air conditioning, and some rooms are fitted with a terrace. All units have a wardrobe.

Continental and gluten-free breakfast options are available daily at a cafeteria 350 feet away from Hostal Can Xicu.

Capmany is about 15km from Figueres.

3. LA CASA DEL LLEDONERS

Located in Masarach, 16.2 miles from Cadaqués, La Casa dels Lledoners provides a garden and free WiFi.

This bed and breakfast’s room has a flat-screen TV and a private bathroom with a hairdryer, free toiletries and shower.

A continental breakfast is available daily at La Casa dels Lledoners.

A terrace is available on site and both hiking and cycling can be enjoyed within close proximity of the accommodation.

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