Murchison Falls National Park is Uganda’s largest wildlife reserve – but that’s not all this veritable Eden has to offer. Four of the Big 5 roam about and sip at the edge of the Victoria Nile whose waters eventually burst through a narrow rock face in a potent torrent and drop down a steep cliff before reaching the bottom in a frothy fury.
Uganda: 12-Day Tour
When I was planning our grand tour of Africa one of the countries I really wanted to visit was Uganda. In fact, it turned out to be the first country we visited in Africa.
It is a beautiful country – lush and green (which means it gets its fair share of rain). Uganda has a variety of wildlife and birdlife that is unmatched by almost any other country, with the big draw being the mountain gorilla. But there are lots of other things to see along the way.
We planned a 12-day tour which covered most of the south-western part of Uganda.
For Uganda, we decided to use a tour company, Matoke Tours, which we highly recommend to anyone planning to visit Uganda. Matoke provided a car and driver for our 12-day itinerary. We decided to not self-drive in Uganda to give us some time to adjust to what being on the road in Africa might be like. It turned out to be a good decision!
Uganda is quite a small country but it has a huge population – around 68 million people. So, as you drive along it seems you come to a village or town every 5km or so, which is always bustling with people. Also, it seems every man has a cheap Chinese motorcycle, which they use to carry everything from people (could be 3 or 4 on a bike), livestock (including large pigs), or just about anything else you could imagine. It feels quite scary driving around surrounded by motorbikes and people.
DAY ONE – ENTEBBE
Arrive at the Entebbe International Airport and spend the night in a guest house in Entebbe.
DAY TWO – ENTEBBE TO ZIWA RHINO RANCH AND MURCHISON FALLS NATIONAL PARK
Ziwa Rhino and Wildlife Ranch in Nakasongola. It is about 176km (100 miles) north of Entebbe / Kampala and takes about 2 hours to drive, which makes it a great stopping point on the way to Murchison Falls National Park.
Uganda at one time had a healthy population of both black and white rhinos, but sadly by 1983, they became extinct in the country due to various factors, primarily the civil war and poaching, as well as urbanisation.
In 2005, Rhino Fund Uganda reintroduced the highly endangered rhinos in Uganda at the 7,000-hectare Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary. Initially, six breeding rhinos were brought in from the US and Kenya. The sanctuary is currently home to 33 herbivores of the southern white rhinoceros family and the lone breeding centre in Uganda. The plan is one day to take some of the herd at Ziwa and reintroduce rhinos into the National Parks of Uganda.
As well as offering rhino tracking the sanctuary offers a shoebill trek and canoe ride, bird watching and night walk.
See our full blog post on Ziwa Rhino Ranch
After leaving Ziwa it took about another two and a half hours to reach Murchison Falls National Park. Murchison Falls National Park is part of the greater Murchison Falls Conservation Area (MFCA), which encompasses various other woodlands and forests, such as the Budongo Forest Reserve, Karuma Falls Wildlife Reserve and Bugungu Wildlife Reserve.
We stopped at Murchison River Lodge during our stay at Murchison Falls National Park.
DAY THREE – MURCHISON FALLS NATIONAL PARK
An early morning game drive through Murchison Falls National Park is a great way to begin your exploration.
We ventured into the National Park, which unlike most of the landscape we travelled through the day before, which had been rainforest, was flat and savannah-like, with long, pale yellow grasses and the occasional bush and trees. It was exactly as we expected an African landscape to look.
Along the way, we saw plenty of antelope. There were some antelopes we’d never seen before including the strange and gangly-looking Jackson’s Hartebeest and the Ugandan kob.
As well as antelopes we saw giraffes, elephants, cape buffalo and most exciting of all hyenas, lions and a leopard (who was up a tree but came down on to the road).
In the afternoon you can have a leisurely boat safari up the Victoria Nile. Along the way, you are likely to see hippos in the water, waterfowl, and crocodiles on the banks. There will also be other animals coming to the river to drink including waterbucks, warthogs, giraffes and elephants. The journey upstream ends short of the mighty Murchison Falls, but you do get to see the water crashing through the narrow gap in the canyon walls. The whole journey takes about 3 hours.
Spend a second night at the Murchison River Lodge.
For a full review of Murchison Falls National Park see our Blog Post.
DAY FOUR – MURCHISON FALLS AND TRAVELLING TO KIBALE NATIONAL PARK
On the day of our departure, we took the 40-minute car ride to the head of Murchison Falls to get a real close-up.
Murchison Falls, also known as Kabalega Falls. At the top of Murchison Falls, the Nile forces its way through a gap in the rocks, only 7 m (23 ft) wide, and tumbles 43 m (141 ft), before flowing westward into Lake Albert. The English traveller Sir Samuel White Baker visited the falls in the mid-1860s and named them for the geologist Sir Roderick Murchison.
The falls are actually made up of two distinct segments – the primary fall in the narrow gorge is a cascading type drop, with a run of about 320 linear feet, and a portion of the river diverts to the north and plunges over a more vertical fall – known as Uhuru Falls – which can expand to over 200 feet in breadth.Uhuru Falls came into existence in 1962, the same year Uganda got independence.
It is called Uhuru Falls for two reasons. To celebrate Uganda’s Independence Day, 9th October 1962 and because the falls were actually formed in 1962.
In 1962, Uganda received heavy rainfall which forced part of Murchison Falls to create a tributary that formed the second falls, named Uhuru. Since then, the falls has created a spectacular view and are often are referred to as twin falls.
After spending an hour at the various viewpoints at Murchison Falls it is time to head to the next destination, Kibale National Park, 288km to the South. This will take about 5 hours – so settle in for a long drive!
Spend the night at the Turaco Treetops.
For a full review of Murchison Falls National Park see our Blog Post.
DAY FIVE – KIBALE NATIONAL PARK
Located in western Uganda, 5 hours from Kampala, Kibale Forest National Park covers 795km2 and is predominantly covered in a tropical rain forest. It is one of the best safari destinations in Africa for chimpanzee trekking safaris and has the highest number and diversity of primates in East Africa. There are 13 species of primates including chimpanzees: around 1500 call Kibale home. At the park’s northern tip, Kibale’s highest point stands 1590m above sea level.
The chimpanzee trekking starts around 8:00 am in the morning with a small group accompanied by a Ranger. Once you have found the chimpanzees you get to spend about an hour with them.
The chimpanzee trekking will be done before lunch. So, you can have a leisurely afternoon or opt for an afternoon activity. The main choices are a nature walk in the swamp or a community tour. We chose the latter.
The community tour is done in association with a local group that conducts the tour to raise funds for local community projects. The tour took us through the fields to see where mixed crops such as bananas, corn, coffee and vanilla are grown, to see a man make banana gin (delicious), watch how coffee is made from beans, visit a local school and meet with a group of ladies who produce local crafts.
Spend a second night at the Turaco Treetops.
For a full review of Chimpanzee trekking in Kibale National Park see our Blog Post.
DAY SIX – QUEEN ELIZABETH NATIONAL PARK
It is only about 150km from Kibale to Queen Elizabeth National which will take about 3 hours, so with a morning start, you will reach Queen Elizabeth National Park around midday.
This gives you time to have lunch and take in an afternoon game drive.
Spend the night at Ihmamba Lakeside Safari Lodge.
For a full review of Queen Elizabeth National Park see our Blog Post.
DAY SEVEN – QUEEN ELIZABETH NATIONAL PARK
Boasting one of the highest biodiversity ratings of any reserve in the world, Queen Elizabeth National Park is home to almost a hundred animal species as well as more than 600 types of birds.
The park is 1,978 km2 in size and is famous for its primate species, its unusual tree-climbing lions, and its large concentration of hippos.
Rise early and take a morning game drive before the heat of the day makes all the animals take to the shade.
In the afternoon take the boat ride along Kazringa Channel.
This is a narrow channel that connects the two major lakes in the area: Lake George and Lake Edward. It is a wonderful place to spot wildlife, especially birds and mammals.
Spend a second night at Ihmamba Lakeside Safari Lodge.
For a full review of Queen Elizabeth National Park see our Blog Post.
DAY EIGHT – BWINDI IMPENETRABLE FOREST
Today is a long 320km drive from Queen Elizabeth National Park down to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in the southwestern tip of Uganda, where it meets Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. The journey will take around 7 to 8 hours with stops.
You will enter the mountainous region of Uganda, typified by terraced fields of crops on the mountainside and rainforest.
Spend the night about 1 hour from Bwindi Impenetrable Forest at Lake Mulehe Safari Lodge.
DAY NINE – GORILLA TREKKING IN BWINDI IMPENETRABLE FOREST
The Bwindi Impenetrable Forest is thought to be one of the most biologically diverse forests in Africa and one of the oldest dating back to over 25,000 years ago.
More than half the world’s population of mountain gorillas reside within Bwindi and these are the main focus of visitors. However, there are also healthy populations of chimpanzees, L’Hoest’s monkey, red-tailed monkey and colobus as well as five species of duiker and bushbuck. A small population of forest elephants also live within the forest and although the animals themselves are rarely seen, the tell-tale signs of their presence are often encountered.
To visit the gorillas in Bwindi you will need a tracking permit, which costs $700. There are only 152 permits issued each day, so you will need to get your permits in advance. Bwindi has 18 habituated gorilla families, who have been exposed to humans so accept their presence, which is visited by a group of a maximum of 8 people per day for 1 hour.
How long it takes to find your assigned gorilla group is a bit of a lottery. We were very lucky, it only took us 20 minutes, but you could equally be trekking for 3 hours! This a mountainous area, so the trails can be steep and challenging – it is worth paying for a porter to carry your bags (this is their only income in most cases). Once you find the gorillas you are likely to be travelling through the virgin rainforest with a tracker leading the way, hacking through the brush with a machete. The going is physical and often you will be clinging onto the sides of steep slopes, grabbing anything to hand. It was not easy – so think twice if you are not very mobile before taking a gorilla tracking tour.
Spend a second night at Lake Mulehe Safari Lodge.
For a full review of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest see our Blog Post.
DAY TEN – LAKE MBURO NATIONAL PARK
Another long driving day from Bwindi Impenetrable Forest to Lake Mburo National Park. It is about 300km on not-so-good roads, so it will take 7 to 8 hours including some stops.
Spend the night at Rwakobo Rock.
DAY ELEVEN – LAKE MBURO NATIONAL PARK TO ENTEBBE
Before heading back to Entebbe you can explore Lake Mburo National Park, either by doing a game drive or as we did a walking safari. There are no lions or elephants at Lake Mburo so it is safe to walk around, accompanied by a park ranger. There are zebra, giraffes and antelope to see.
For a full review of Lake Mburo National Park see our Blog Post.
After the game walk, have a late breakfast and leave for Entebbe.
On the way, you can stop to see the equator line, located between Nabusanke and Kayabwe along the Masaka Road, about 72km southwest of Kampala.
DAY TWELVE – RETURN HOME
Today, it is time to leave Uganda and return home or continue your adventure somewhere else.
Best time to visit Uganda
The best time to visit Uganda is during its two dry seasons: between December and February, and between June and August, when conditions are particularly good for trekking to see mountain gorillas and chimpanzees.
Game spotting in national parks is also good at this time, as well as between February and March. Large numbers of wildlife can be seen at waterholes from September through to early October.
Temperatures barely change throughout the seasons, sitting around 24°C to 30°C, so you can visit Uganda all year round. The country is also fabulous for bird spotting at any time of year.
Uganda – Month-by-Month
Visiting Uganda in January – February
Considered a dry season, this is one of the best times to visit Uganda, although rainfall can be expected here in any month. Wildlife spotting is particularly good at this time of year as there is less vegetation to obstruct your view and a variety of wildlife can be seen seeking waterholes. This is also a great time for trekking to see mountain gorillas and chimpanzees, while bird watchers can enjoy spotting migratory birds.
Visiting Visiting Uganda in March – May
Considered one of Uganda’s wet seasons. Parks are lush and green and animals give birth to their young. It’s also an excellent time to spot migratory birds. Heavy rain showers are frequent so the roads can often be in bad condition. As such expect bumpier journeys.
Visiting Uganda in June – August
This is one of the best times to visit Uganda and is considered a dry season, although rainfall can still be expected. It is particularly good for wildlife spotting as there is less vegetation to obstruct your view and a variety of wildlife can be seen seeking waterholes. It’s also a great time for trekking to see mountain gorillas and chimpanzees.
Visiting Uganda in September – October
This is one of the best times to visit Uganda and is considered a dry season, although rainfall can still be expected. It is particularly good for wildlife spotting as there is less vegetation to obstruct your view and a variety of wildlife can be seen seeking waterholes. It’s also a great time for trekking to see mountain gorillas and chimpanzees.
Visiting Uganda in November
Considered a wet season, November sees dry plains gradually turn green in the national parks as heavy rain showers fall across the landscape. It is a good time to see migratory birds.
Visiting Uganda in December
You can expect some rainfall during December, but wildlife spotting opportunities are good. This is also a great time for trekking to see mountain gorillas and chimpanzees, as well as for spotting a variety of migratory birds.
More to Explore
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