Tanzania: Ngorogoro Conservation Area

January 2, 2023
Tanzania
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The morning was very cold, as we rose before dawn. It was also very misty, and we worried whether this would be a big issue for our planned trip to the bottom of the Ngorogoro crater.

We had our breakfast and loaded up the LandCruiser and headed out. The mist had not improved at all since we had woken up. The scary thing was as we drove along the road, was that there was a 1500m drop on one side of us. As we pootled along, we ended up behind another game drive vehicle, whose driver evidently had no idea about driving in these conditions – he was all over the road! Our driver sensibly made no effort to overtake. Eventually, we arrived at the entrance to park, and began our journey down into the crater.

After about 15-minutes going steadily downhill, we reached the crater floor. We had descended below the cloud cover, but it was grey and overcast, but we could still clearly see the crater walls in all directions. We travelled on a little further into the park, and we were treated to a large male lion standing proudly on a rock above us surveying his land, reminiscent of Mufasa in Disney’s Lion King. The crater floor of the Ngorogoro is largely flat, with a couple of lakes, one salt-water and the other fresh, a marsh area and one wooded area. The first area we passed through was this wooded area. We came across a small troop of baboons, who were still getting used to the cold morning, and were huddling together for warmth. Just a little distance on from the chilly baboons was a small pride of lions next to the road. They were so close I could barely fit them in my camera frame, but I did manage to get some great shots of the male lion with its mouth wide open!

The wooded area was not large, so after leaving the small pride of lions we were back out on the open plains. It was not too long before we had another lion sighting. This time it was a lioness who had killed a Grants gazelle and was carrying the dead antelope to a safer place to enjoy her meal. We were the first game drive vehicle on the scene, and it was great not to have a dozen other vehicles around us jockeying for position. The lioness had the neck of the dead gazelle in her mouth and was dragging it along between her legs. It was slow going and she had to keep stopping to take a rest. We watched for several minutes, and she laboured with her catch, and inevitably other vehicles started to turn up, so we headed back on out.

It had already been an exciting morning of wildlife viewing, and we were already in need of a break. Our driver drove us across towards the area where the freshwater lake is found in the Ngorogoro crater. Most of the lake is covered in dense reeds, but there still remains a small area of open water, which is ruled by a small pod of hippos. The area is also a popular gathering spot for antelope and zebras. Here by the water was a rest area, with bathrooms and most amazingly, a little food cart, selling hot coffee (including expresso and cappuccino) and snacks. It was a bit pricey but worth it. Bladders emptied and caffeine levels topped up, we headed back out into the crater fully charged for more game viewing. In the crater, there are not a lot of roads, but the main route is a circular one that skirts the base of the rim. Along the way, we spotted a couple of hyenas skulking around in the grass and a lot more antelope grazing. Most of the crater floor is very flat, but this is one small hill that provides a vantage point, which is where we headed. From the hill, which is not very high, you can see all the way across the crater floor. From here we saw one of our more unusual sights, an angry ostrich chasing a hyena, who had obviously decided to raid this ostrich’s eggs. The ostrich clearly had other ideas and saw off the hyena, who wisely retreated to a safe distance.

We dropped down from the hill and headed across to Ngorogoro’s second lake, a small saltwater depression, much favoured by greater and lesser flamingos. There was not a huge flock residence – so it was nothing like those David Attenborough documentaries where millions of flamingos descend on a lake creating a sea of pink. It was still great to see these rather odd-looking birds up close.

By now it was lunchtime, so we headed back to the rest area by the freshwater lake, come pond, for some grub. The only danger here was a hungry, yellow-billed kite who would swoop down and take food from your hands.

After lunch, we had a little more time to drive around before heading out of the park to our hotel for the night, Kudu Lodge. We were on our way out of the park when we came across a large collection of game drive vehicles parked up watching a lioness who was lying near a waterhole close to the road, seemingly resting. A little way from her was a buffalo, who did not care too much that the lioness was there, seemingly aware that she was not likely to try and attack on her own. As we watched a solitary zebra moved close, which piqued the interest of the lioness who watched as it came within striking range. The zebra hadn’t seen the lion and slowly started to move away, turning its back. Big mistake. The lioness rose and started to stalk the zebra … then it struck. After a short chase the lioness caught the zebra and brought it to the ground. It was hard to watch at the zebra struggled with the lioness on top of it, but it was fascinating viewing, and we couldn’t bring ourselves to look away. Then, for some reason the buffalo who had been quietly grazing, decided to intervene and crossed about 100 metres to where the lioness was pinning the zebra down, and charged. The lioness quickly got out of the way, but the poor zebra could not move and took to brunt of the buffalo’s horns. We are sure the buffalo was after the lioness, not the zebra! Anyway, the zebra was temporarily free and somehow managed to get up and stagger away – obviously, it was mortally wounded. The buffalo satisfied with its work sauntered off and the lioness came back in for the kill, taking the zebra down for the second and final time. A couple of minutes later a second lioness turned up to join in the fun.

It was now time to leave Ngorogoro, but as drove towards the exit road our path was blocked firstly by a large bull elephant on the road, who eventually moved by us, passing very close by, and then by a fallen tree, which was not so interested in moving out of the way. Our driver did a bit of off-road manoeuvring, and we were soon climbing the steep road out of the crater.

About Ngorogoro Conservation Area

Ngorongoro Conservation Area, national conservation area in the Arusha region of northern Tanzania, southeast of Serengeti National Park. Occupying some 3,200 square miles (8,300 square km), it extends over part of the Eastern (Great) Rift Valley of eastern Africa and contains a variety of habitats and landscapes, including grassland plains, savanna woodlands, forests, mountains, volcanic craters, lakes, rivers, and swampland. Ngorongoro Crater, one of the world’s largest unbroken calderas, is the most prominent feature of the park. Also located there are the major archaeological sites of Olduvai Gorge and Laetolil, within which were found hominin remains dating from 2.1 million and 3.6 million years ago, respectively.

The area’s main volcanic formations, including Ngorongoro Crater and the volcanoes Olmoti and Empakaai, formed from 20 million to 2 million years ago. Empakaai Crater is noted for the deep soda lake that occupies nearly half of its caldera floor.

Ngorongoro Conservation Area is host to the largest ungulate herds in the world, including gnu (wildebeests), plains zebras, and Thomson’s and Grant’s gazelles. Predatory animals include lions, spotted hyenas, leopards, and cheetahs. The endangered black rhinoceros and African hunting dog can also be found there. Notable among more than 400 species of birds in the area are flamingos, silvery-cheeked hornbills, superb starlings, and bronze and tacazze sunbirds.

In 1951 the area was included as part of the original Serengeti National Park, but in 1959 it was separately designated the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. It was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1979.

Planning your visit to Ngorogoro

Kilimanjaro Airport to Ngorongoro

Kilimanjaro International Airport (JRO), the second largest airport in Tanzania, has regular flights to major cities nearby as well as all around the world.
From Kilimanjaro International Airport to Ngorongoro Crater it is approximately 230 kilometres, about a 5-hour drive.

Arusha to Ngorongoro

Arusha Airport (ARK) is a small airport, but the closest airport to Ngorongoro. It can be reached on a regional plane from one of the nearby international airports.
The distance from Arusha airport to Ngorongoro Crater is about 170 kilometres. That’s about a 3-hour drive by car. Be aware that the roads are not in great condition and you can expect gravel.

Nairobi to Ngorongoro

Nairobi to Ngorongoro is about a 7-8 hour drive with a distance of more than 400 kilometres. Driving on your own can be very exhausting, and you will have to search for petrol stations. A better alternative would be to fly into Nairobi and then take a local flight into Arusha.

Website:	https://www.ncaa.go.tz/
Hours:	6.00 a.m. – 6.00 p.m
Admission Fees	Adults: $71 Children(5-16): $24 Under 5: Free

Best time to visit the Ngorogoro

The best season to visit Tanzania is during the long dry season, which falls from July to September. These are considered the best months for safaris, the Great Migration, trekking, and beach holidays in Zanzibar.

Of course, these months are peak travel season. They will be busier, and some lodges, hotels, and parks will apply higher rates.

If you prefer a more secluded experience, consider visiting during the short rainy season from the end of October to December.

If possible, you’ll want to avoid visiting during the long rainy season from March to May. The rains are often heavy and sudden, which can result in activities being cancelled last minute.

Visiting Tanzania in January – February

There is a chance of rain, the temperature is getting higher and the humidity is building. It’s still a good time to go as rates are lower and safari is excellent. At this time of year the migration herds are in the southeast of the Serengeti for calving season, so the Ndutu Plains are busy but it is amazing to see so many animals in one place.

Events & Festivals

Green Season (November to March): Tanzania’s Green Season offers superb birdwatching opportunities, with migratory birds arriving in their thousands.

Visiting Tanzania in February – February

Migration is still occurring in Ndutu. The weather is hot and humid with a chance of rain.

Events & Festivals

Green Season (November to March): Tanzania’s Green Season offers superb birdwatching opportunities, with migratory birds arriving in their thousands.

Visiting Tanzania in March

Migrating herds are starting to leave Ndutu, heading west toward Grumeti. This is truly low season, before the heavy rains but with humidity building. Great rates can be taken advantage of at this time of year.

Green Season (November to March): Tanzania’s Green Season offers superb birdwatching opportunities, with migratory birds arriving in their thousands.

Visiting Tanzania in April – May

This is a period of heavy rain, so we would advise against travelling at this time.

Visiting Tanzania in June

This is the green season, bringing lush grasses and bush that can make spotting game more difficult. However, this is still a wonderful time to travel — particularly for bird watchers as parks are full of migratory birds; especially in the south. Migration should be in the Grumeti area of the Serengeti heading north.

Visiting Tanzania in July

This is the start of the peak season. The Migration is in the north of the Serengeti moving toward Kenya, and elephant start to gather in Tarangire. The land is getting drier and spotting game is becoming easier. Temperatures are in the high 20°Cs to early 30°Cs and the humidity is low.

The best chance to observe herds of animals in their hundreds as they cross Tanzania’s rivers on their epic journey across the continent is as part of the Great Migration in Africa.

Visiting Tanzania in August

Peak season. Migration is still in the north. As the land becomes more parched, the animals’ behaviour becomes more predictable. The dense bush in Ruaha is drying out so game spotting here becomes much easier.

The best chance to observe herds of animals in their hundreds as they cross Tanzania’s rivers on their epic journey across the continent is as part of the Great Migration in Africa.

Visiting Visiting Tanzania in September

Peak season. The end of the migration is still in the north, with herds on both sides of the Kenya and Tanzania borders and high numbers of elephant in Tarangire. The northern circuit can be very busy, but it is less busy in the south, so for those who want to avoid crowds it’s best to visit the southern parks.

The best chance to observe herds of animals in their hundreds as they cross Tanzania’s rivers on their epic journey across the continent is as part of the Great Migration in Africa.

Visiting Visiting September in October

Peak season. The migration is now in Kenya, but the game viewing in central Serengeti is still very good. Southern parks are particularly rewarding at this time of year.

Visiting Visiting Tanzania in November

Short rains. This is a great time to take advantage of low season rates and is still a popular time to travel. The rains tend to be overnight, but there is a risk of rain during the day as well. Migrating herds are starting to travel south from Kenya, so crossings can be seen in the north of the Serengeti.

Green Season (November to March): Tanzania’s Green Season offers superb birdwatching opportunities, with migratory birds arriving in their thousands.

Visiting Visiting Tanzania in December

There is a chance of rain, but this is generally overnight. Temperatures and humidity start to build. Safari is good, with migrating herds in the north travelling south to Ndutu. The festive season can be very busy and needs to be planned well in advance to ensure availability.

Green Season (November to March): Tanzania’s Green Season offers superb birdwatching opportunities, with migratory birds arriving in their thousands.

Ngorogoro Rhino Lodge

There are several lodges and places to stay around the Ngorogoro Conservation Area. We were booked into Rhino Lodge formerly the home of Ngorongoro’s first conservator, Henry Fosbrooke. The lodge is located just a few metres from the rim of the Ngorogoro crater. The lodge does not overlook the crater itself but has vistas of misty montane forest and distant Mount Oldeani. The well-kept grounds are regularly visited by local wildlife.

There are 24 simple plain single, double, and triple rooms with double or bunk beds, each with an en-suite toilet, shower and hand basin, and a private verandah. All rooms are clean, cosy, colourful, and uncluttered, with wood-burning stoves. Power and hot water are limited because Rhino Lodge operates a careful policy of sustainability to protect the fragile ecology of the conservation area

The large public spaces include a bar and a restaurant. The food was amazing and there was a vegetarian option on each menu,

There is a large deck at the lodge which is a great place to have a sundowner and watch the sunset.