Tipi Bush Camp, on a private reserve adjoining Addo Elephant National Park. There are three large 6.3 metre diameter TiPi’s, based on the American Indian style can each accommodate 4 people on a self catering, un-serviced basis.
South Africa: Camdeboo National Park
The 19,400-hectare Camdeboo National Park is unique in South Africa encompassing some of the most rugged and spectacular Karoo-mountain landscapes, a large freshwater dam and it almost entirely surrounds the historic town of Graaff-Reinet.
We said our goodbyes and set off northwards towards our next destination Graaf-Reinet which was nearly 200km away.
As we travelled along the road the weather started to improve, the clouds parted, and the sun came out. It turned into a beautiful day – which always makes driving more pleasant. It was around lunchtime when we pulled into where we were staying the night at Rietjiesbos Guest House. It was a beautiful property just outside the town centre, with a lovely main house and guest rooms, which have been stables and other outbuildings. Our room was gorgeous – everything was painted white, including the brick walls, which Karen loves, and the room was pin neat. We didn’t have too much time to enjoy our room and the pretty gardens as I wanted to leave enough time in the day to enjoy Camdeboo National Park – so we had a quick sandwich and headed out.
The National Park is located just outside the town and so it took no time to reach the gate. It is divided into different sections, but the place I most wanted to visit was spookily named, the Valley of Desolation, which seemed very appropriate as we were visiting on Halloween.
We left Graaf-Reinet going northeast along the R63, reaching the park entrance just a few kilometres outside the town. After paying our fee. From the entrance, we followed the Valley Road which climbs to a high point about the valley floor. It is a curvy road, with steep drops offs – which is always a worry to Karen. The first stop on the road was a place called Toposcope, where you can walk along a short trail out to a narrow peninsula of the mountain. As we started the trail we met an older South African gentleman, who was visiting with his wife. He wasn’t too confident walking on the rough trails, so he was waiting at the bottom whilst his wife went up on her own. I left Karen to talk to him while I went up the trail a bit to explore. When I looked back, I saw a large tortoise on the road behind Karen – I gave her a shout, which confused her somewhat, so I followed up with some gesticulations and eventually, she got the message and went off to make friends with the tortoise. Whilst this was going on the man’s wife returned from the trail’s end and I had a little chat with her. Eventually, we headed off up the trail. The views down to the valley floor and Graaf-Reinet below were amazing. After snapping some photos, we headed back to the car.
At the end of the road, there was another car park from which more trails headed out. There is a 3.5 km circular trail that takes about an hour or so to walk. We decided to take a short loop. About 300 metres from the car park, up a trail, there was a series of viewpoints that look out onto a beautiful rock formation and the valley beyond. It was rather lovely. The trail was narrow and rocky, so we had to watch our footing as we went along.
From the top of Valley Road, we headed back down and out of the entrance on the R63. There were more parts of this section of the park to explore but these roads require a 4×4 vehicle. Instead, we drove another 3km up the road and entered the game section of the park. There is no big game wildlife in Camdeboo National Park, but you will see antelope, wildebeest and plenty of birds. It is a small area, so it took us less than an hour to drive through. The roads are gravel, but in good condition, and navigating them was easy with the map provided when you enter.
Our plan had originally been to go back to our room and grab a sandwich for dinner, but we changed our minds and thought we’d check out a restaurant called ‘Hello You’ that the owner of Rietjiesbos, Vanessa, had recommended. When we entered, we were one of the first to arrive. It was lovely and had several seating areas to choose from. They had made a real effort to make the place feel cosy and welcoming and the candles on the tables really added to the atmosphere of the dining experience. We were impressed with the vegetarian options and went with the veggie burger and vegetarian pizza. The food was amazing, especially the pizza, which we both agreed was one of the best we’d ever tasted!
About Camdeboo National Park
The 19,400-hectare Camdeboo National Park is unique in South Africa encompassing some of the most rugged and spectacular Karoo-mountain landscapes, a large freshwater dam and it almost entirely surrounds the historic town of Graaff-Reinet.
The Park is located in the foothills of the Sneeuberge, or Snow Mountains, with an elevation of between 740 and 1480-metres above sea level. The beautifully situated Nqweba Dam, which services the water requirements of Graaff-Reinet, covers approximately 1,000 hectares at capacity within the Park’s boundary.
The Camdeboo National Park is probably best known for the spectacular view site situated above the vast flat plains of the Camdeboo, known as the Valley of Desolation. The jointed dolerite pillars of the Valley of Desolation were formed when the softer sedimentary bedrock eroded away leaving these stark dolerite pillars which frame the southern slopes of the escarpment which rise in jagged profusion to heights of between ninety and one hundred and twenty metres.
The view site overlooking the Valley of Desolation is reached via Valley Road from the entrance gate on the R63 linking Graaff-Reinet and Murraysburg. The Crag Lizard Walking Trail starts at the Valley of Desolation parking area and extends for about 1.5-kilometres skirting the precipitous mountain edge and provides access to a number of magnificent viewpoints of the rugged valley and across the dolerite spires of rock to the vast plains of the Camdeboo.
Planning your visit to Camdeboo National Park
How to get there
Camdeboo National Park surrounds the town of Graaff-Reinet in the Eastern Cape.
To Reception, Nqweba Campsite and Lakeview Tented Camp:
The gate is four kilometres out of Graaff-Reinet off the N9 to Middleburg.
To the Valley Of Desolation and Game Viewing Area:
The gate is reached 5km out of Graaff-Reinet on the R63 to Murraysburg.
The nearest international airport is in Cape Town and the nearest domestic airport in Port Elizabeth.
From Cape Town, take the N1 highway towards Beaufort West. Pass through the town of Beaufort West and then turn right onto the R61 to Aberdeen. At Aberdeen, take the N9, left towards Graaff-Reinet.
- Beaufort West to Graaff-Reinet = 209 km.
- Cape Town to Graaff-Reinet = approx. 600 km.
From Port Elizabeth, take the R75 to Jansenville and Graaff-Reinet.
| Website: | https://www.sanparks.org/parks/camdeboo/ | |
| Fees: | South African Citizens and Residents (with ID) | R52 per adult, per day R26 per child, per day |
| SADC Nationals (with passport) | R104 per adult, per day R52 per child, per day | |
| Standard Conservation Fee (International Visitors) | R160 per adult, per day R80 per child, per day | |
Gate Entrance Times
Valley of Desolation Gates
| Jan – Feb | Mar | Apr | May | June | July-Aug | Sept | Oct | Nov | Dec | |
| Open | 06:00 | 06:00 | 06:30 | 07:00 | 07:00 | 07:00 | 06:30 | 06:00 | 06:00 | 06:00 |
| Close | 20:00 | 19:30 | 19:00 | 18:30 | 18:00 | 18:30 | 19:00 | 19:30 | 20:00 | 20:30 |
Game Viewing Area & Lakeview Gates
| Jan – Feb | Mar | Apr | May | June | July-Aug | Sept | Oct | Nov | Dec | |
| Open: | 06:00 | 06:00 | 06:30 | 07:00 | 07:00 | 07:00 | 06:30 | 06:00 | 06:00 | 06:00 |
| Close: | 19:30 | 19:00 | 18:30 | 18:00 | 17:30 | 18:00 | 18:30 | 19:00 | 19:30 | 20:00 |
Things to bring:
Car Equipment
| Two spare tires | Seed net/grill | Puncture repair kit | Sand tracks |
| Spade/shovel | High-lift jack | Kinetic strap/rope | Compressor |
| Tire pressure gauge | Car tools and spares |
General:
| Water and food | Fuel | Braai Wood | Flashlight |
| Headlamp | First Aid Kit | Camera | Binoculars |
| Wide-brimmed hat | Sunscreen | Mosquito spray |
Best time to visit Camdeboo Park
Wildlife viewing in Camdeboo National Park is good the whole year through, but it gets very cold in winter, and the mountains might get covered in snow. The park is mostly about its scenery and antelope species, not about seeing Big 5 animals. Therefore, warmer summer months from October to March are more pleasant and the scenery is greener.
Where to stay
RIETJIEBOS B&B
We spent a night at the Rietjiebos Bend and Breakfast. The room was very comfortable and tastefully decorated. It also had a lovely garden to relax in.
Each room is equipped with a flat-screen TV with satellite channels. You will find a kettle in the room. The rooms are fitted with a private bathroom. Extras include free toiletries and a hairdryer. Rietjiesbos Self Catering features free WiFi.
More to Explore
