Established in 1962, Isalo National Park protects over 190,000 acres of land dominated by a dramatic sandstone massif that has been eroded by time and weather into an otherworldly collection of plateaus, canyons, gorges, and pinnacles.
Madagascar: Royal Hill of Ambohimanga
Ambohimanga dates from the 16th century and developed into the capital city in the 18th century. The walled city, with stone gates, three palaces, cemeteries and holy places, combines Malagasy and European architectural styles.
Today was our final day in Madagascar. Our flight to Dubai, via Mauritius, was not leaving until 17:00 so we had some time to do a final bit of exploring.
I discovered a week or so ago that there was a historic site that was just north of Antananarivo that was a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and I have a passion for visiting as many of these as I can. This was not on our original visit plan, but I had worked with Sense of Oceans to squeeze in a visit to the Royal Hill of Ambohimanga.
We collected after breakfast, with our bags and drove the twenty minutes to the site, which is up in the hills surrounding Antananarivo. It is about 24km from the centre of the city.
Ambohimanga is a hill and traditional fortified royal settlement (rova) which is considered the embodiment of Malagasy cultural identity. It has immense historical, cultural, and spiritual significance. As the home and cemetery of former sovereigns, the site was the religious capital of nineteenth-century Madagascar. Ancestor worship is an important aspect of Malagasy culture, and the site remains a place of worship and pilgrimage drawing visitors from Madagascar and beyond.



We had arrived early and were one of the first tourists there which was great as we had the place to ourselves. You had to go with a guided tour of the complex and we were assigned to a wonderful young lady who spoke great English and had a fantastic knowledge of Ambohimanga.
We started the visit to Ambohimanga after entering via the Royal Gate. As part of the tour, we got a whistle-stop overview of the history of the Royal family of Madagascar and the cultures and customs they followed. The first building we entered was the King’s Palace, the oldest remaining structure at Ambohimanga, a small traditional Malagasy wooden building. The pillar that supports the roof is made of rosewood and scientists believe that the effort to bring it here could have required up to two thousand slaves, one hundred of whom died in the process. The top of the pole is carved to show a pair of women’s breasts, a symbol of the king’s polygamy. The king supposedly hid in the rafters when visitors arrived, signalling whether the guest was welcome by dropping pebbles onto his wife’s head. The royal bed is in the sacred northeast corner of the hut and is elevated to indicate the king’s superior status.





At the back of the King’s Palace are the tombs of the ancestors of the first King have been restored and what was left of the human remains has been re-interred, after they had been taken away to Antananarivo by the French in 1897.

From the King’s Palace we visited the more modern European-styled summer palace of Queen Ranavalona I, constructed by French engineer Jean Laborde in 1870 (he was thought to be Ranavalona’s lover). This palace has been beautifully restored and is very different from the King’s Palace, it is light and airy and decorated with European furnishings and art. The dining room was lined with mirrors, which allowed the queen to check that no one was sneakily poisoning her food.


Our final stop was at the open-air baths where the king performed his royal ablutions once a year, in the company of his 12 wives and diverse honoured guests. Afterwards, his bathwater was considered sacred and was delivered to local dignitaries to use.

It had taken only an hour to visit Ambohimanga which was fascinating, but it was now time to go to the airport and catch our flight to Dubai.
About the Royal Hill of Ambohimanga.
First occupied in the fifteenth century, the Royal Hill of Ambohimanga has long been one of the most important spiritual and historic sites for the Malagasy people. Perched high atop one of the twelve sacred hills of Imerina, it emerged as a fortified political capital in the mid-18th century. Defensive walls with seven gates were constructed, and the primary gate was closed by rolling a 12-ton stone disk to seal the opening and protect the Malagasy royalty in times of danger. The site includes a complex of royal buildings and places of ritual, a royal burial ground, fortification systems, a sacred forest with many endemic species, and the former seat of justice, which is located on an enormous granite rock and shaded by a royal fig tree. In the nineteenth century, the French colonial authorities made several attempts to undermine the significance and national symbolism of Ambohimanga, all of which proved unsuccessful.
The later history of the Royal family of Madagascar included some interesting characters.
Originally Madagascar was divided into small kingdoms. Later, empires arose. In the early 19th century, with the help of the British, King Radama I of the royal Merina dynasty conquered most of the island and recognized him as the ruler of all of Madagascar. He did much to modernize Madagascar. After his death, the throne passed to his ruthless wife Ranavalona I, who was herself of royal birth. During her bloody reign she persecuted Christians and drove many foreigners out of the country, but her son and successor, Radama II, welcomed them back.
King Radama II’s openness to outsiders angered members of his own government, and in 1862 he was strangled to death. His widow, Queen Rasoherina, succeeded him as monarch, but the power behind the throne was a man named Rainilaiarivony, who had helped plot the murder of Radama II. He became the queen’s prime minister and her husband. When Rasoherina died in 1868 and was succeeded by a royal relative, Queen Ranavalona II.
Rainilaiarivony married her, too, and continued to rule Madagascar in the queen’s name. To strengthen his power, he and the queen converted to Christianity.
After the death of Ranavalona II in 1883, another royal woman ascended the throne as Queen Ranavalona III. Rainilaiarivony married her too. In 1890 Madagascar became a French protectorate. Rainilaiarivony, who opposed the French, was sent into exile in Algeria. The queen accepted the protectorate and was allowed to remain on the throne, but in 1897 she too was exiled. She was Madagascar’s last monarch. Today Madagascar is an independent republic.
Planning your visit the Royal Hill of Ambohimanga
Ambohimanga is located in the central highlands of Madagascar, approximately 24 kilometres (15 mi) northeast of the capital city of Antananarivo. The hill rises steeply approximately 450 feet from the surrounding terrain on its eastern side and gradually slopes downward toward the west.
Best time to visit Madagascar
Current Weather Forecasts
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The best time to visit Madagascar depends on what you want to do and see. The country is green and fresh after the rain that falls between January and March, with lemurs and reptiles active and easy to spot. While there are some heavy downpours from April to June, these are interspersed with sunshine, while July and August are cool and dry, making this an ideal time for exploring.
The whales arrive on Île Sainte-Marie in July and remain until the end of September. Between September and November the weather is particularly lovely, remaining fine and warm. This is also when jacarandas are in flower and many lemurs have young. While December is hot, lemurs, reptiles and tenrecs are active, which makes for good wildlife viewing.y-Month
Visiting Maadagascar in January to March
January to March is cyclone season, so we would advise against travelling to Madagascar during this time.
Visiting Madagascar in April to June
Heavy downpours can still be expected in April, May and June, but between these showers the sun will usually shine. Following the rainy season the landscape is lush and green, with wildlife such as lemurs and reptiles often making an appearance.
Visiting Madagascar in July & August
This is a good time to try spotting humpback whales as they begin to arrive in Île Sainte-Marie. The weather is cool and dry, making this a comfortable time to explore.
Events & Festivals- Spot humpback whales (July to September): Humpback whales migrate from the Antarctic at this time of year to calve, making for unforgettable sightings from the shore or on a boat expedition around the island of Île Sainte-Marie.
- Spot humpback whales (July to September): Humpback whales migrate from the Antarctic at this time of year to calve, making for unforgettable sightings from the shore or on a boat expedition around the island of Île Sainte-Marie.
- See fossa in western Madagascar: Endemic to Madagascar, fossa are cat-like, carnivorous mammals. October and November are a great time to spot them in the deciduous forests of western Madagascar such as Anjajavy Private Nature Reserve.
- See fossa in western Madagascar: Endemic to Madagascar, fossa are cat-like, carnivorous mammals. October and November are a great time to spot them in the deciduous forests of western Madagascar such as Anjajavy Private Nature Reserve.
Visiting Madagascar in September
The weather is fine and warm. Humpback whales can still be seen in Île Sainte-Marie until the end of the month, while lemurs begin to give birth to young.
Events & Festivals
Visiting Madagascar in October
Temperatures begin to increase around the country and jacarandas are in bloom, displaying their vibrant purple flowers.
Events & Festivals
Visiting Madagascar in November & December
Temperatures continue to increase around the country, although there is a little bit more in the way of rain. Lemurs, reptiles and tenrecs can often be spotted at this time..
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