Ambohimanga dates from the 16th century and developed into the capital city in the 18th century. The walled city, with stone gates, three palaces, cemeteries and holy places, combines Malagasy and European architectural styles.
Madagascar: Isalo National Park
Established in 1962, Isalo National Park protects over 190,000 acres of land dominated by a dramatic sandstone massif that has been eroded by time and weather into an otherworldly collection of plateaus, canyons, gorges, and pinnacles.
Luckily, a visit to Isalo National Park is not about viewing wildlife, so we had a gentle start to the morning. At around 8:30 am, we headed out to meet up with our guide for the day, Roxy, who would be taking us for a hike through Isalo. We were to be taking an 8-mile point-to-point hike, so our driver Zo would be meeting us at the far end at a campsite where we’d be having lunch.
Isalo National Park is one of the country’s most popular destinations. Established in 1962 it protects 815.4 km² of sandstone landscape that has been dissected by wind and water erosion into rocky outcrops, plateaus, extensive plains and up to 200 m (660 ft) deep canyons. There are permanent rivers and streams as well as many seasonal watercourses.
The bulk of the park sits atop an escarpment, which meant our hike started with an uphill trail, that snaked its way through a rocky section of the escarpment’s face. As we went along, we’d stop every few minutes for Roxy to tell us about the formations of the rock, of a plant or a creature. There was one very large green, furry insect with huge eyes, which looked prehistoric, Also, high up in the cliff faces were signs of human presence, burial sites of the Bara people. When Bara die, they are buried in natural caves and covered with a stone cairn of neatly arranged granite. Further into our hike, we would see an abandoned coffin of a Bara woman.
The Malagasy ethnic group the Bara, a semi-nomadic, zebu farming people used to live in these lands. They still are the main ethnic group in the area and are the largest farmers of zebu. The young men of the Bara practice to this day cattle rustling as proof of their manhood. This can be a dangerous business and it is not unknown for these young men to be killed by angry farmers.
Once we reach the top of the escarpment the land opened in front of us. The rock here dates back to the Jurassic period and has been carved into impressive formations over time by the elements. It is dry and arid up on the plateau so there are only a few, low trees and plenty of scrub bushes. For the next hour or so we crossed the open plain as the temperature began to rise.
There are rivers and streams that run through Isalo that form an oasis of lush green vegetation and shade. In places, the slow-moving rivers form crystal-clear pools. It was to one of these pools that Roxy took us. We had been warned we might be doing this, so we had come prepared with our swimsuits. The pool was about 20 metres in diameter and surrounded by rock and trees, so was very shaded and private. We subtly changed into our swimwear and walked across the little sandy beach and cautiously entered the water. It was chilly, but not too cold, so we braved it and went in further. The water was deep enough that I couldn’t stand up in places. It was wonderful to swim and cool off. After about 15 minutes we got out, dried ourselves and got dressed. At this point, Roxy produced a well-time snack.
There are rivers and streams that run through Isalo that form an oasis of lush green vegetation and shade. In places, the slow-moving rivers form crystal-clear pools. It was to one of these pools that Roxy took us. We had been warned we might be doing this, so we had come prepared with our swimsuits. The pool was about 20 metres in diameter and surrounded by rock and trees, so was very shaded and private. We subtly changed into our swimwear and walked across the little sandy beach and cautiously entered the water. It was chilly, but not too cold, so we braved it and went in further. The water was deep enough that I couldn’t stand up in places. It was wonderful to swim and cool off. After about 15 minutes we got out, dried ourselves and got dressed. At this point, Roxy produced a well-time snack.
We carried on walking and after another 90 minutes, we reach the entrance to the gorge that would take us down to the day camp area where we’d be meeting Zo for lunch. With more water passing through the canyon, it was a lot more verdant here. The trail began to head downwards and at the same time became rockier and harder underfoot. We made a few stops along the way to take photos and admire the view, but we were also conscious of the dark clouds that were now starting to threaten.
About four hours after starting out we rolled into the day camp area, which was surprisingly quiet. In fact, we were the only people there.
Zo had arrived and bought with him a chef to cook our lunch! We took one of the picnic benches under a shelter and there were a few drops of rain in the air. It was about this time when the ring-tailed lemurs arrived. These and the red-fronted brown lemurs love the tree-lined canyons of Isalo – they also love the fruit that visiting tourists bring with them. The lemurs had no fear of us and were climbing on our table and benches. As cute as they were it was a bit of a nuisance and we had to shoo them away. That said it did not stop enjoying our delicious lunch, which as usual was too much for us to finish. In fact, the lemurs did get to have some of our fruit, which is not good practice.
Once we were done Roxy gave us the choice to do another walk along a canyon, but the weather was not looking great and there was a potential for a flash flood in the canyon. So, we decided to have a relaxed afternoon back at the lodge.
Planning your visit to Isalo National Park
The town of Ranohira is the gateway to Isalo National Park and the closest big cities are Toliara, which is 150 miles (241 kilometers to the southwest), and Fianarantsoa which is 170 miles (273 kilometers) to the northeast. All three settlements are connected by the RN7, Madagascar’s biggest and best-maintained road which makes access to Isalo easy. From the Madagascan capital, Antananarivo, it’s a 15-hour drive to the park along the RN7. Consider making a trip of it and stopping along the way at other Madagascar highlights such as Ranomafana National Park and the ex-colonial city of Antsirabe.
Best time to visit Madagascar
Current Weather Forecasts
|
Antananarivo
Sunday
 74°
few clouds
 Clouds20%
 Humidity40%
 Wind15mph
Mon
Min51°
Max80°
Tue
Min51°
Max77°
Wed
Min51°
Max71°
Thu
Min49°
Max76°
|
Toliara
Sunday
 84°
clear sky
Clouds0%
Humidity53%
Wind12mph
Mon
Min71°
Max85°
Tue
Min71°
Max84°
Wed
Min72°
Max84°
Thu
Min71°
Max84°
|
Morondava
Sunday
 83°
scattered clouds
Clouds44%
Humidity64%
Wind14mph
Mon
Min74°
Max83°
Tue
Min75°
Max83°
Wed
Min75°
Max83°
Thu
Min75°
Max83°
|
The best time to visit Madagascar depends on what you want to do and see. The country is green and fresh after the rain that falls between January and March, with lemurs and reptiles active and easy to spot. While there are some heavy downpours from April to June, these are interspersed with sunshine, while July and August are cool and dry, making this an ideal time for exploring.
The whales arrive on Île Sainte-Marie in July and remain until the end of September. Between September and November the weather is particularly lovely, remaining fine and warm. This is also when jacarandas are in flower and many lemurs have young. While December is hot, lemurs, reptiles and tenrecs are active, which makes for good wildlife viewing.y-Month
Visiting Maadagascar in January to March
January to March is cyclone season, so we would advise against travelling to Madagascar during this time.
Visiting Madagascar in April to June
Heavy downpours can still be expected in April, May and June, but between these showers the sun will usually shine. Following the rainy season the landscape is lush and green, with wildlife such as lemurs and reptiles often making an appearance.
Visiting Madagascar in July & August
This is a good time to try spotting humpback whales as they begin to arrive in Île Sainte-Marie. The weather is cool and dry, making this a comfortable time to explore.
Events & Festivals- Spot humpback whales (July to September): Humpback whales migrate from the Antarctic at this time of year to calve, making for unforgettable sightings from the shore or on a boat expedition around the island of Île Sainte-Marie.
- Spot humpback whales (July to September): Humpback whales migrate from the Antarctic at this time of year to calve, making for unforgettable sightings from the shore or on a boat expedition around the island of Île Sainte-Marie.
- See fossa in western Madagascar: Endemic to Madagascar, fossa are cat-like, carnivorous mammals. October and November are a great time to spot them in the deciduous forests of western Madagascar such as Anjajavy Private Nature Reserve.
- See fossa in western Madagascar: Endemic to Madagascar, fossa are cat-like, carnivorous mammals. October and November are a great time to spot them in the deciduous forests of western Madagascar such as Anjajavy Private Nature Reserve.
Visiting Madagascar in September
The weather is fine and warm. Humpback whales can still be seen in Île Sainte-Marie until the end of the month, while lemurs begin to give birth to young.
Events & Festivals
Visiting Madagascar in October
Temperatures begin to increase around the country and jacarandas are in bloom, displaying their vibrant purple flowers.
Events & Festivals
Visiting Madagascar in November & December
Temperatures continue to increase around the country, although there is a little bit more in the way of rain. Lemurs, reptiles and tenrecs can often be spotted at this time..
Events & FestivalsMore to Explore
